Tuesday 29 November 2022

Namibia: Tsumkwe Lodge

Tsumkwe Lodge is located Tsumkwe, in the north east of Namibia. To get to Tsumkwe, drive northwards from Grootfontein on the B8. After 55 km, you will find the turn-off to Tsumkwe, the C44. This is a gravel road in good condition and you will enter Tsumkwe after about 225 km and 3 hours.

The road can be travelled with any kind of vehicle, but to explore the area, a 4x4 vehicle will be needed. At the moment, fuel is not available in Tsumkwe. There is a very good gravel airfield 5 km outside Tsumkwe.

Tsumkwe is a small settlement in North Eastern Namibia. The area was formerly called Eastern Bushmanland, the former "homeland" of the Ju/'hoansi which means "real people", also referred to as San, Bushmen or !Kung.

The Nyae Nyae Conservancy was formed in 1998 and gives the Ju/'hoansi the right to benefit financially from the wildlife in the area, mostly through receiving income from a hunting concession. It is not a game reserve, but several species of game are found here and conservation of the environment is a priority.

The Ju/'hoansi live throughout the area in closely knitted family groups on what is left of the land of their forefathers. They are the only community in Namibia who are allowed to hunt on government land, albeit only traditionally.

They are increasingly becoming involved in tourism, which provide capital in an area where formal employment is limited. It is possible to camp at these "villages" after obtaining permission and paying a camping fee. There is a conservancy office in Tsumkwe where tourists can obtain information and arrange for a local guide.

The border post at Dobe, 53 km east of Tsumkwe, is now open 7 days a week (7h30 to 16h30 Namibian time) and provides a thoroughfare to Botswana. The 4x4 track to Nokaneng is about 140 km. The average speed one can maintain on this road is 50 km/h. The nearest fuel would be 30km north of Nokaneng at Gumare or at Maun.

At this stage, fuel is not available in Tsumkwe and there are two shops with very basic supplies, a police station, a school, two churches, a clinic, the lodge and some government offices.

The Dutch Reformed Church operates a curio shop in Tsumkwe, which is well worth a visit. The curios are obtained from all the Ju/'hoan communities in the area in exchange for basic food supplies.

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