Thursday 30 November 2023

South Africa: Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, Cape Town

Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve

This Reserve is visited by thousands of people daily during the holiday season. It is administered by the Divisional Council.

Apparently it is everyone's ambition to see Cape Point, certainly a worthy one, but by no means all that the Nature Reserve offers. The great majority of visitors pay the small admission fee at the gate, take a copy of the pamphlet, drive to Cape Point, visit the Homestead Restaurant, and leave.

They complain that they did not catch a glimpse of a single animal mentioned in the pamphlet, except for a few baboons.

To see other animals you must drive slowly, take a side road or two, be observant and patient.

The area is not what is was in the year 1600, when elephant, lion and hippo were common, and herds used to migrate, but there are ostriches and many hoofed animals, including bontebok, of which only about 60 are left in the world, and these are found only near Swellendam through the Bontebok Park to this Reserve.

The roads have to be tarred, otherwise dust caused by traffic would destroy the vegetation. But tarred roads encourage motorists to violate the speed limit of 40 km per hour, and speedsters sometimes kill animals. In one case seven young ostriches were killed by a single motorist. Evidently he did it deliberately, riding them down in sequence.

The large number of visitors implies a need for a high level of self-discipline and vigilance. During the holiday season, 20 labourers work full time cleaning up litter. A Reserve official tells a tale of an antelope with a tin can over its hoof and the wound going septic, and of another on post-mortem found to have a plastic bag in its stomach.

What irritates Reserve officials most is people who insist on feeding baboons despite all notice to the contrary. You might not be a qualified expert on these animals but try to imagine a baboon which during a single day is approached by at least 500 people with chocolates, potato crisps, ice cream, pop corn, bubble gum, cellophane wrappers and heaven knows what else. It is not surprising that on post-mortem examination the animal shows stomach disorders, bad teeth and abnormal hair.

Baboons that are fed lose their fear of man. They attack and bite people, and enter cars that are left unlocked. A baboon can grasp a half-open window pane and break it.

Dogs are not allowed in the Reserve, but can be accommodated at the gate.

The map handed out at the gate is instructive. Several peaks along the east coast of the Reserve can be ascended on foot for unforgettable views. The west coast is excellent for strolls.

There are two lighthouses at Cape Point, an old one whose light was too often hidden by fog, and a new one at a lower level where the fog is less severe. Some local tourist literature claims that the latter is the most powerful lighthouse in the world. This is doubtful. The Guinness Book of Records mentions a lighthouse in Ile d'Ouessant at Finistere in France which is almost 80 times as strong.

Braais can be held at countless places. At any particular spot, remember to check whether fires are permitted, water is available and toilets accessible. Sometimes free firewood is provided.

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